The Bespoke Journey

The making of a suit in detail
For those of you who might be unfamiliar with the process of having a Bespoke garment made, let us try and talk you through the process as it typically unfolds. This might vary a little depending on what you are looking to order, be it a suit, an individual coat or even a stand alone trouser. For the purpose of this exercise we’ll look at a suit.

Consultation

Finding out your needs

This is where we have an informal chat about what you might be looking for, as it is important to establish what we are aiming to achieve. There are a few considerations to think about and the main things to acknowledge are the following:

1. Your personal style, what are you comfortable wearing? Do you wear suits on a daily basis or are you an occasional wearer? We are all too aware that jumping into a world of bespoke clothing can easily become an overwhelming experience, we aim to ease the customer into making decisions that are right for them irregardless of their experience.

2. Consider what the garment might be required for, is it a business suit worn regularly? An occasional suit, or perhaps a suit for your wedding day?

Finding the right fabric
This is when things really start to get interesting and the search for your fabric will begin. Everybody has colours that work better for them than others so we discuss this, along with body type which is key in getting the garment to both fit and flatter the customer. When looking at fabric it is important to think about the time of year and which part of the world one is going to be wearing it. This narrows down the choice some what and allows us to begin to focus on the options. Then think about the context in which the suit is going to be worn, whether you are in a boardroom or a beach in the Bahamas.
Taking your necessaries
We are now ready to take measurements and talk about fit and style. Once we have taken a complete set of measurements, we generally require 14 different ones. We can then discuss the stylistic elements of the garment. For example, single or double breasted, including extra details such as pocket types and vents, whether you require a waistcoat, and also your options regarding trouser style.

Production starts

Making the garment begins
Now that your initial consultation is over, our work begins. It’s time for us to take the measurements and to transfer them into an individual paper pattern, this pattern is used as a template to cut out the fabric. It is also kept as a reference, any alterations that we do throughout the making of the garment will be reported back to the pattern creating a perfect template for each customer.

Moving forward, we place the hand cut paper pattern on the chosen fabric and then cut the garment out. Keeping allowances on seams for changes we might need to make to the garment, both during the production and for any possible future alterations, a feature you only get with a true bespoke garment. All our coats are made the way renowned tailors for generations have been making them, with a traditional floating canvas.

First Fitting - Skeleton
This is the first time the customer will try the garment on. This fitting is ultimately to assess whether we need to make any figure alterations at this stage. We also discuss with the customer some finer details, looking at features like the length of the coat, overall fit, including the rise and comfort of the trousers. Once all parties are satisfied we ‘rip down’ the coat and trousers, basically dismantling it, while at the same time making any necessary fit changes and alterations.
Second Fitting - Forward
For what we call a forward fitting the garment is re assembled from the first fitting, while in doing so we add elements synonymous with the fished article, progressing the coat and trousers by adding pockets and facing to the lapels. The sleeves are roughly attached so we can make sure we obtain just the right amount of shirt cuff showing, and to the customers taste. Once these advancements are made it is time for another fitting, this is more of a check fitting for the tailor and is done before any of the finishing is started. The garment at this stage will really resemble the finished product, minus things like the finished collar and buttonholes.

Final Fitting

The completed Garment
Many hours of hand work go into the finishing process, and so this stage can take a number of weeks. We reach the end of our journey by dry pressing the garment, using age old techniques to keep all the figuration and shape. Now complete for its final fitting, and ready to take home to be worn for many years to come.

In this example we have completed the process in 4 fittings, however this is a minimum and we undertake as many fittings as are required to satisfy both the customer and ourselves, ensuring you walk out of our workshop with the best garment possible.

Get in Touch

Happy to help
If you have any further questions or would like to book a consultation feel free to get in touch and we will be happy to help.
We are open on a strictly by appointment only basis for the foreseeable future, as things change we’ll keep you informed. For more info on how we are operating click here